European

Italian Chicken with Mushroom-and-Wine Sauce The Creamy Polenta with Parmesan is a nice accompaniment to the chicken.

(Zuccotto) During the Renaissance, Italian cardinals wore small skullcaps, called zucchetti, presumably from the word zucca, meaning "squash" (the caps resembled little pumpkins). This dessert looks very much like those caps from long ago, and so the name refers to them. Many fillings can be used, but the nuts and chocolate here come closest to the original recipe, which is a Florentine classic.

This version of a popular Provençal treat has a tender texture. The fried cookies are perfect with a glass of milk (kid style) or with an after-dinner drink (for grown-ups).

This must be made in a deep, oven-proof earthenware (lead-free) bowl to have its special rich taste!

We found that using a blender to begin the emulsion process for aïoli is much faster than pounding by hand from start to finish, which is the traditional method. Once using the mortar, resist the impulse to add the oil quickly — it will cause the mixture to separate. All the slow stirring requires a strong arm, so you may want to recruit a friend to help (especially because you need to make the aïoli in two batches). Very fresh garlic is crucial to this recipe. Bulbs should have smooth, tight skin and be firm and heavy for their size, with no green shoots.

This gelato, named after Bernardo Buontalenti, a sixteenth-century Florentine who may have been one of the world's original ice-cream makers, is made with any number of flavorings. The "secret" ingredient is usually a liqueur (such as Di Saronno Amaretto). A delicious alternative would be a pinch of mixed spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. This foamy custard is a traditional Italian dessert. Delicious with no accompaniment at all, it's even better spooned over fresh fruit or served with biscotti. Be sure to have anything else you plan to serve with the zabaglione ready to go, as it really is best eaten just seconds off the stove.

Crisp anise cookies are layered with raspberries and honey-flavored cream. There are enough cookies to make four desserts, with extras for nibbling.

"I've been telling everyone about the absolutely incredible birthday meal I had at Park Avenue Café here in New York City," writes Sherri Steinfeld Maxman of New York City. "The knee-weakening menu included Burke's famous "pastrami" salmon; a morel flan served with eggshells nestled in eggcups; basil-rubbed rack of lamb with oven-dried tomato ravioli; Camembert fondue with truffle essence; and a dazzling array of desserts." Executive chef David Burke uses the term fondue freely, in this case applying it to a truffle-flavored cream sauce served with a slice of Camembert. He likes to use Hudson Valley Camembert, a blend of sheep's and cow's milk. It is available by mail order from the cheesemaker, Old Chatham Sheepherding Company in Old Chatham, New York , tel. (888)743-3760.

Fresh Ricotta, Anchovy, and Oregano Toasts Crostini refers to a whole family of antipasti based on thin slices of bread, toasted, sometimes brushed with olive oil, and covered with any number of savory toppings. If you can, buy fresh anchovies and marinate them yourself or buy them already marinated from an Italian or Hispanic deli (where they are known as alici marinati or boquerones respectively; see note below).

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Fried artichokes are usually served whole in Rome as a primo piatto, but we found that cutting them into wedges before frying made them a finger-friendly and addictive hors d'oeuvre. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 hr

"The recipes here reflect my British roots, but not necessarily my family traditions," writes Mairi Morrison of London, England. "Although my mother is from Scotland and my father is from Northern Ireland, I grew up in Los Angeles, where our weeknight meals were typically American: spaghetti, tacos, and burgers. It wasn't until I moved to Europe that I became really interested in food. Here in London my social life is centered around the table. I really like this dish because it is typically British, and perfect for a rainy winter evening in London." A nice side with lamb, chicken or fish dishes.

This sauce evokes Provence at its productive best, in summer, when farms and family gardens are at their peak production, yielding vegetables with an incomparable depth of flavor. Note: be sure all of your ingredients, and the bowl or mortar you are working with, are at room temperature. Differing temperatures can cause the aïoli to separate. When making aïoli - or any mayonnaise-like sauce - think slow, slow, slow. There is a simple remedy for separated aïoli. Put an egg yolk in another bowl, and slowly whisk the separated aïoli into it.