European

(Klejner) Every year research editor Karen Hallal serves these spiced diamond-shaped cookies for dessert on Christmas Eve. They are fried like doughnuts and coated with powdered sugar. The recipe for klejner, popular all over Scandinavia, was given to Karen by her Danish mother.

Phyllo dough gives this dessert a crisp texture that contrasts nicely with the smooth lemon filling.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This starter is an easy version of the fried cheese dish, saganaki, which is traditionally paired with a glass of ouzo. It's great with freshly grilled pita bread.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Toss one cup of the pesto with one pound of cooked pasta, or try it as a sauce over baked chicken or fish.

Fabio Picchi, owner and chef of the restaurant Cibrèo in Florence, cooks like a Florentine granny with a spicy palate. He takes full advantage of seasonal abundance from the Sant' Ambrogio market next to his restaurant. Fabio's recipes are wonderful but imprecise, quantities are vague, and I've got to pay strict attention so he doesn't skip an ingredient or a step. His refreshing summery tomato aspic is simple and uses traditional ingredients in a novel way, creating a spicy tomato sauce with a wiggle, barely jelled, more fun than a formal aspic. Bright red, speckled with herbs, zapped with chili and garlic, Fabio's appetizer is a far cry from the ladies-lunch image of conventional, transparent consommé aspics. Even my gelatin-hating husband and son love this dish. Double the extra virgin for more authentic Tuscan flavor.

(GALETTE DE POMMES A L'ORANGE) A country-style fruit tart with a lattice top.

Called sfingi and alternately sfina and zeppole, these classic southern Italian fritters are made from pasta bignè, or cream puff dough. Since there is no sugar in the dough, rolling the fritters in cinnamon sugar gives them the right touch of sweetness.

(Roasted Potato Slices with Salt Cod Purée and Roasted Red Pepper)

Juicy peaches, crushed cookies and vanilla ice cream spiked with brandy and amaretto add up to a perfect summer treat.

(GRANITA DI LAMPONE) Sicily's Arab conquerors were on to something when they chilled sarbat (sweet fruit syrups) with snow from Mount Etna. The evolution from chilled syrup to frozen syrup-granita-was only a matter of time. Granita is still very popular in Sicily, where the most common kinds are coffee and lemon. But it is also enjoyed throughout Italy in a host of other flavors. A big plus to this refreshing ice is that it is prepared without an ice cream maker.

An infant version of vichyssoise, this is for the nine-month-old — and older — baby with a discriminating palate. It can be served warm or at room temperature.