Fruit

A high proportion of lemon juice gives curd its intense flavor. Since it is an acidic ingredient, it also prevents the yolks from curdling, eliminating the extra step of tempering. Lemon curd makes a delicious filling for a cake like the one on page 457 but it’s equally welcome spread into a tart shell or on slices of pound cake or Buttermilk Shortcakes (page 433). Gelatin is added primarily to make a sturdier cake filling; leave it out if you are making the curd to serve on its own. Other citrus curds can be made using the formula below; replace 1/2 cup of the lemon juice with other fresh citrus juice and use an equal measure of zest.

The cabbage family takes quite well to braising. Start by caramelizing the apples and onions with some sugar for a pleasant balance of sweet and tart flavors. Not only does the vinegar add a delicious flavor, but the acid helps keep the cabbage a bright purple color.

Peaches are used in this very basic recipe for fruit jam, but you could substitute an equal amount of apricots or plums in their place. Add it to ice cream, or use it to fill a jelly roll cake such as the one on page 464. The jam is quickly made and can be kept refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 weeks. If you prefer, strain the jam in a fine sieve before storing.

In many Asian cuisines, a common way to steam whole fish (usually surrounded by aromatics) is on a plate that is customarily set in a very large wok. The plate captures the juices that collect during cooking and create a flavorful broth. You can set the platter in a roasting pan if the fish is quite large, but use a wok if yours will accommodate. You‘ll have about a cup of broth after the fish has finished cooking, so use a platter deep enough to hold it. Then, be sure to drizzle some over each serving. Set out bowls of steamed rice and bok choy or wilted spinach along with more Asian fish sauce, a traditional table condiment.

Preparing foods en papillote, which loosely translates to “wrapped in paper,” is actually another way to steam food, even though it takes place in the oven rather than on the stove. It is most commonly used for fish fillets but is also well suited to shellfish and leaner cuts of chicken, such as boneless breast halves. This French technique always manages to impress, the pretty little packages resembling gifts, one for each guest. When the packets are slit open—ceremoniously, at the table—their fragrant aromas are released all at once, hinting at the tastes to come. These bundles are ideal for entertaining, but cooking en papillote has other advantages, too. The packets can be assembled a few hours ahead of time (covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated on a baking sheet) and then tucked into the oven once your guests arrive. And, like other steaming methods, it doesn’t require much added fat; instead, the sealed parchment traps in all that wonderful moisture and flavor. In this recipe, a compound butter helps bring all the components together while adding richness to the dish. Forming the packets is easy—no special skills required. The shape isn’t as important as making sure the edges are tightly sealed. You can fold the parchment into envelopes, wrap it into bundles, or form it into bags, but half-moon packets are the classic shape. The traditional technique begins by cutting paper into a heart shape, but this one starts out as a simple rectangle.

When you think of fruit pie, a double-crust beauty with juices bubbling up and out of the top probably comes to mind. And though you will often hear that baking requires precision to turn out right, once you get in the habit of baking fruit pies, you will begin to see an opportunity for some flexibility with the fillings. With a little practice, you can learn to adapt the basic formula depending on what fruit is in season, and to adjust the amount of sugar or thickener (such as flour or cornstarch) based on the juiciness of the fruit. You might even begin to experiment with combinations of fruits, or flavorings such as zests and spices, to suit your own tastes. Apricots and cherries taste great together, as do peaches and blueberries. If you want to combine fresh and dried fruits, try pears with dried sour cherries; up the ante with a pinch of Chinese five-spice powder. In order to get to that improvisational stage, however, you have to start with something very basic, and what’s better than starting with the American standard—apple?

In this classic French first course, the vegetables are first poached, then marinated in vinaigrette. For deeper flavor, the vegetables can be braised in stock instead of poached. The leeks are especially delicious when garnished with sieved egg yolk (called “mimosa” for its resemblance to the golden flower and most often used with asparagus). The leeks can also be combined with other components to create an elegant composed salad, such as the one on page 312.

Making this rustic, free-form pie couldn’t be more elementary. You still have to know how to prepare the dough and roll it out, but after that it’s quite forgiving. The foldover crust requires less fuss than does a pastry shell baked in a pan. Just arrange the sweetened fruit in the center of the dough, then fold the border up and over the filling and bake. Make sure to taste the fruit before you begin, adding more sugar if it tastes very tart.

Steaming is the classic way to cook globe artichokes. Their leaves become very tender and perfect for dipping one by one into melted butter (this one is flavored with fresh tarragon). The artichokes would also be delicious with Hollandaise Sauce (page 96), or crème fraîche and caviar.

A compote is a simple fruit sauce that usually serves as one element of a multilayered dessert. It’s used to top cakes or scoops of ice cream or as an accompaniment to mildly flavored cookies such as shortbread. Rhubarb requires a higher proportion of sugar than most fruits, since it is naturally sour; here it is also flavored with citrus zests. If you want to use other fruits, such as stone fruits or pears, adjust the amount of sugar depending on their sweetness.

Macerating is a simple way to turn fresh fruit into a syrupy sauce. Sugar draws out the fruit’s juices; lemon juice preserves color and adds flavor.

A simple buttermilk biscuit serves as the basis for fruit shortcake. As with many easy recipes, your success rate at making biscuits will most likely grow exponentially with each attempt. There’s nothing tricky about it; just be sure to work quickly and not to overwork the dough at all, which will cause the biscuits to become heavy and flat. In this recipe, a traditional strawberry shortcake is enhanced by a rhubarb compote to serve along with the macerated berries. You can use one fruit and not the other (by doubling the amount of either topping). Or substitute an equal amount of another fruit for the rhubarb, or macerate any other type of berry. An apricot compote would be lovely with macerated blackberries, for example, or nectarines with raspberries. The whipped cream, however, is not optional; it’s a fundamental part of the appeal of fruit shortcake. The biscuits, meanwhile, can be served on their own for breakfast, topped with a pat of butter and your favorite jam. (If you are planning to serve them with savory dishes like eggs and bacon, however, omit the sugar and vanilla bean.)

This is an example of a shorter braise, but the result is much the same as for longer-braised dishes—tender, succulent meat that falls off the bone. Although rabbit is very popular in France and elsewhere, it is not as familiar in the United States, so feel free to substitute chicken legs or thighs (or a combination); breast meat is too lean for braising. Olives, orange, and rosemary lend this dish assertive flavors; it is best served over creamy Perfect Soft Polenta (page 419), and accompanied by a simple watercress (or other bitter green) salad.

The popular version of fish tacos—as opposed to those made with grilled fish, native to Mexico—is believed to have originated in Southern California, where there is a strong Mexican influence on cooking and plenty of coastline for reeling in fish. They are garnished with a variety of piquant salsas and relishes and usually crema, the Mexican equivalent of sour cream; these are topped with a sour cream–based sauce, spiked with smoky chipotle chiles.

Everyone needs one reliable recipe for an old-fashioned drop cookie. This master recipe fills the bill. It’s simple (no machines necessary—the butter can be creamed by hand, though you can use a mixer for ease) and infinitely variable (modify the dough with any of the add-ins listed below, or split it into two or three batches so that you can make more than one type of cookie at the same time). And if you want, you can bake a portion of it, then form the remainder into balls (on baking sheets) and place in freezer until frozen. Store the frozen balls of dough in a resealable bag in the freezer until until you’re ready to bake; let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before baking, and bake a few minutes longer than the recommended time. These cookies are somewhat cakey; for a chewier texture, reduce the flour by 1/2 cup and the baking time by 2 minutes.

To intensify the flavor of the squash, you can roast it before simmering in the soup: Halve squash lengthwise and scoop out seeds, then season squash halves with salt and pepper; place cut sides down on a lightly oiled baking sheet and roast in a 400°F oven until tender when pierced with a knife, about 30 minutes. Scoop the squash from the skins and discard skins, then proceed with the recipe, simmering in stock for 8 to 10 minutes, to let flavors meld.

Many cooks prefer to grill larger cuts of fish rather than smaller fillets, since the extra heft helps to trap in moisture and flavor. This recipe calls for a large piece from a side of salmon to be grilled on a bed of citrus and herbs, which helps keeps the fish from sticking to the grate. Instead of a crisp skin, you’ll get plenty of bright flavors from the aromatics. Use this method to grill other types of fish, too, whether whole sides or smaller fillets (even skinless ones). The herbs can vary; dill, marjoram, parsley, and thyme are all particularly lovely with fish.