Fruit

When we were testing milkshake recipes for Bobby’s Burger Palace, I learned some interesting things about fruit-based milkshakes, especially about milkshakes made with fresh berries: Berries are very expensive. Berries are extremely perishable. Berries are inconsistent in taste (ranging from sweet to tart) and texture (ranging from watery to dense). All these factors presented a problem when we were trying to create a thick, flavorful milkshake. We needed to find an alternative, still using fresh fruit, that would produce a consistently thick and flavorful milkshake every single time. We found a company on Long Island that produces fresh fruit purees. The purees are thick and almost jam-like in texture, and they add incredible fresh fruit flavor while not compromising the thickness of the shake. Now the recipe from the company that produces the purees for us is top secret, but I have created something very close to make at home. In addition to providing a wonderful fresh fruit flavor, these bases will also keep in the refrigerator or freezer for a good amount of time—unlike fresh berries, which tend to go bad in a few days. Just add 1/4 cup or so to vanilla or chocolate ice cream for an intensely good shake.

This might be one of the more esoteric shakes in this book, but I hope you find it intriguing, not off-putting. The extra step of roasting the pineapple is well worth your time. Roasting concentrates the pineapple’s flavor and intensifies its sweetness as the heat of the oven caramelizes the fruit’s natural sugars. Tart lemon sorbet is added to balance that sweetness and for its icy texture. Using pineapple juice gives this shake a depth of flavor and refreshing quality that milk wouldn’t provide.

I am one of the few people whose mother never packed a Fluffernutter sandwich in their school lunch box. You know what? That’s okay. The thought of peanut butter, marshmallow, and banana “sandwiched” between two slices of squishy, flavorless bread was not so appetizing to me even as a child. However, when you get rid of the bread and add some ice cream and milk to those three ingredients, it’s a totally different story. If only my mom had filled my lunch-box thermos with this shake.

Every time I visit Venice, Italy, one of my first stops is Cipriani for their signature Bellini cocktail, a wonderful mixture of fresh peach puree topped with cold sparkling Champagne. To make my milkshake version kid-friendly, just top it off with a splash of seltzer water.

A perfectly baked golden buttery crust filled with rich lemon custard and topped with a light and fluffy meringue is pretty much heaven. Well, now you can have your pie and drink it, too. Top this one off with a large dollop of “Fluffy” Whipped Cream and garnish it with a vanilla cookie for crunch. Yum! Are you in the mood for a Key lime pie? Substitute Key lime curd, lime zest, and lime juice for the lemon.

This is my homage to what I consider to be one of the best candy bars on the planet: Fran’s Coconut Gold Bar created by Fran’s Chocolates in Seattle, Washington. The bar consists of bittersweet chocolate wrapped around a creamy coconut–white chocolate ganache center. It’s off-the-charts good! To achieve that contrast between the bitter dark chocolate and the sweet coconut ganache in a milkshake, I combine a double chocolate shake with a mousse-like coconut whipped cream and layer this shake like a parfait. All you need to do is dig in your straw and stir for a little bit of heaven.

This milkshake is so simple but so incredibly amazing and rich. I put this on the menu at Bobby’s Burger Palace and I have one every time I am there.

Crackles of chocolate are better than chips in milkshakes because they fit through the straw. You’re also better off starting with bar chocolate instead of chips because the chocolate is usually of a better quality. Make sure the banana is really ripe and the chocolate is still warm when you drizzle it into the milkshake. Warm chocolate combined with the cold ice cream will instantly harden, making thin little strings of chocolate.

If you are craving a milkshake and still want to be able to feel somewhat virtuous, go for this shake. Blueberries and pomegranates are both proud members of the “superfoods” category and are packed with antioxidants. Of course, the main reason I use them is for their sweet yet slightly tart taste. Their fantastic color doesn’t hurt, either. Thick and tangy pomegranate molasses, which is a reduction of the fruit’s juice along with sugar and some form of citric acid, can be found in Middle Eastern markets and online.

Simply delicious, the strawberry milkshake is an enduring favorite. I prefer to make mine with strawberry ice cream and a strawberry puree, but vanilla ice cream will work in a pinch. The sweet berry puree blends with the milk and ice cream into what looks like your standard strawberry shake, but tastes worlds better thanks to the fresh, undiluted nature of the berries.

As a native New Yorker, I grew up eating my fair share of Junior’s cheesecake from Brooklyn, and I have to admit that it still continues to be one of my favorite desserts to this day. So while coming up with ideas for this chapter, I thought, cream cheese—in a milkshake? Why not? I know that strawberries are the traditional fruit topping for a cheesecake, and you can definitely use them or any other berry or fruit in the recipe, but I have a special fondness for blackberries. This milkshake is so rich, you might want to share.

Pickled onions such as these are most often used as a garnish for tacos, burritos, and guacamole in Mexican cuisine. I think they are just as delicious on most of the burgers in this book, and they add a level of intrigue that raw onion slices could never do. The fresh lime juice is essential for its fresh, clean flavor as well as its acidity. If you want to pump up the volume on flavor and add a bit of heat, try adding a few whole jalapeño or serrano chiles to the mix.

Fried plantains are enjoyed throughout the Caribbean and Latin America. They are a savory—not sweet—treat and you will need to use the unripe green variety for these fries, both for their taste and for their firm texture. I season mine in a Cuban style with lime zest and cayenne to further emphasize their origin, or you can use the Cuban Seasoning on page 118. Needless to say, they are the perfect accompaniment to the Miami Burger (page 51)!

This burger was a staple on Mesa Grill’s lunchtime menu for years and it still makes a guest appearance from time to time. Tuna is a perfect choice for an alternative burger as its substantial meatiness really emulates that of beef. It also stands up to aggressive seasonings and is the perfect base for the slightly sweet, slightly tangy, slightly spicy pineapple-mustard glaze. The relish isn’t like anything you’ll get at a hot-dog stand; dill pickles, peppery poblano chiles, and tart lime juice make for a fresh, not sweet, crunchy relish.

This burger could turn anyone into a West Coast convert with just one bite. Northern California’s gorgeous Napa Valley is home to more than vineyards; it also produces some great local goat cheese and the Meyer lemon. Intriguingly sweet and far more mellow than the standard variety, Meyer lemons are a wonderful treat. Their season is short, however, and they can also be prohibitively expensive. But I still love that flavor and have found that I can replicate it with a mixture of fresh lemon and orange juices. The Meyer lemon–honey mustard is fresh and bright, not cloying. Its sweet note is a great counterpoint to the tangy goat cheese and crunchy, peppery watercress.