Rice

Rice is a staple of Latin cuisines, and growing up in a Cuban family, I probably took it for granted. It was only when I left home that I realized how important well-cooked rice can be, both for the soul and other foods on the plate! I always try to impress on people that it's a sin to use converted or instant rice. It's got to be "real" rice, and preferably long-grain. Avoid flavoring rice, for that will detract from the flavors of the foods you're serving the rice with.

South of Goa, the coastline of Karnataka state is scalloped with palm, mango, and jackfruit trees. This recipe comes from the city of Mangalore, where it is usually made with bangade, a small fish resembling smelt. We used salmon for this curry. And, when we can find them, we toss in about 10 fresh curry leaves along with the onion, garlic, and gingerroot.

This would be nice with warm tortillas.

Dried pears lend a subtle sweetness to the deep, earthy taste of this stuffing.

This lovely first course has the texture of risotto without the constant stirring. What to drink: Arneis or Soave.

This recipe is a great use for cold leftover rice. Order extra rice with Chinese takeout or make a double batch of your own one night — you can keep it, chilled, up to 1 week. Active time: 35 min Start to finish: 35 min

If you're short on time, use a roast chicken from the supermarket instead of grilling chicken breasts. Serve Mexican beers alongside and tortilla chips for extra crunch.

(Sweet Black Rice) Because Thais don't really have a dessert tradition, this simple black rice dish with coconut milk is most commonly eaten as a sweet snack or for breakfast — it also, however, makes a wonderful end to a meal. Recently available in North America, black glutinous rice is unpolished, so it is quite chewy, like brown rice. Thais make a more tender dish by combining the black rice with white sticky rice. As the rices soak together before steaming, the white rice takes on color from the black to become a beautiful dark purple.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Studded with golden raisins, this rich and creamy Greek dessert is from Philadelphia's Chef Theodore.

(Risotto con Regagli) The thrifty Italian Jewish cook wasted no part of the chicken. And it's easy for us to buy inexpensive giblets for this rich and delectable risotto. Donatella Pavoncello, in her delightful Dal 1880 ad oggi: la cucina dalla mia famiglia, cooks the rice in the giblet sauce and spoons some reserved sauce on top. I find it's easier to make the sauce, cook the rice, and then combine the two. That way you don't run the risk of gummy overcooked rice. Incidentally, this sauce is also wonderful tossed with pappardelle.