Snack

Caesar Cardini, the Tijuana restaurateur who originally served his namesake salad sans utensils, obviously knew what generations of romantics have always known — food eaten by hand is sexy. Start things off with the best caviar you can find. What to drink: A brut, or dry, Champagne or sparkling wine (the 1995 Domaine Carneros Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs is an excellent choice if you want to splurge).

A modern recipe from a modern woman: This is based on a recipe from my friend Joanne Rosen, a high-powered attorney who balances her torts and tarts, her husband and her children, with great finesse. Accompany the scones with English clotted cream (or crème fraîche) and honey.

Because of reader demand, this recipe was published in one form or another in The New York Times almost every year between 1983 and 1995, when the then editor of the food section told me to tell my readers it was the last year it would be published, and if they lost it, it was too bad. She suggested they cut it out, laminate it, and put it on the refrigerator door. My coauthor of the first Elegant but Easy Cookbook brought this recipe to the book. Its appeal comes from its lovely old-fashioned flavor and its speed of preparation. It was originally called Fruit Torte.

You can form the sweet-potato pancakes up to six hours ahead, leaving only a quick frying before serving.

These hors d'oeuvres are light, flaky and absolutely addictive. They are also simple to prepare and make a big impression — just what you want in party food.

Lavender flowers are decidedly old-fashioned, as is this not-too-rich tea loaf. You can usually find the flowers in a health food store that sells herbs and spices in bulk. Wrap the cakes in cellophane, tie them with purple ribbon, and attach a yellow lemon-shaped tag to the package. Grinding the almonds in a food processor with a little of the sugar will keep them from turning into nut butter. Used blanched whole almonds or whole almonds with their natural brown skins, depending on the effect you want. Ground unblanched almonds give the cake a homey look, while blanched almonds are less noticeable, emphasizing the flecks of lavender.

These are one of my signature cookies. They taste like miniature brownies — but oh, the texture! They're reminiscent of a meringue, with a soft, chewy, fudgy center and a crisp exterior that crackles appealingly. Since these cookies are smaller and less dense, they have an elegance that brownies lack. And they don't require the same commitment as a big, gooey bar. I can never eat just one of these. They are also a particular favorite of Gramercy Tavern owner Danny Meyer, who can't eat just one, either!

A little bit of smoked mozzarella goes a long way in boosting flavor without adding much fat. Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 2 hr

Hazelnut butter gives the cookies a deep, rich flavor. Look for it in natural foods stores. Before measuring the hazelnut butter, stir gently with a fork to mix in any oil that has separated from the butter.

Unlike oven-baked versions, griddle-cooked scones get a wonderful golden crust, which is a delicious contrast to the soft, tender interior. Active time: 35 min Start to finish: 35 min

"Recently I had dinner at a fine restaurant with a peculiar name: The Place Next to the San Juan Ferry," says Beth Fogarty Day of Redmond, Washington. "It's right by the water in Friday Harbor, Washington. I'd love the recipe for the mushroom and goat cheese appetizer."

This dip was inspired by a recipe for bissara, a garlicky purée from Egypt made from dried broad beans, in Claudia Roden's Mediterranean Cookery.

"The scones from Bon Bonerie in Cincinnati are moist, light and sweet," says John Van Eeckhout of Norfolk, Virginia. "When I lived in the area, one of my favorite ways to spend a Saturday morning was to read the newspaper in the bakery's adjacent tearoom while enjoying a raisin scone with clotted cream, preserves and a cup of coffee." Raisin Scones are also delicious served with butter and jam.