Southern

A healthful version of meatloaf that doesn't sacrifice taste for a lower fat content. Put leftovers on onion rolls with lettuce and tomato for a great sandwich treat.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Southerners expect and almost demand a savory spread at any even involving cocktails (which mans virtually all social get-togethers), so Mother certainly would never disappoint her guests at a formal cocktail supper, even when one or two other appetizers are served. (We won't even get into how Rebels also relish sweet appetizers with their drinks.) She uses this basic formula also to make crabmeat spinach, and ham spreads, so feel free to experiment.

Look for Old Bay seasoning in the spice section of the supermarket.

Both the sauce and the ribs can be made ahead, leaving just the grilling to be done at the last minute.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. This variation on Spanish rice is wonderful with spicy Southwestern dishes.

Serve with black-eyed peas, biscuits, a watercress salad and cold beer or iced tea.

A few years back, I renewed my romance with Galatoire's restaurant. The reacquaintance was arranged by my friend Kerry Moody, who is one of New Orleans's black Creoles. A frequent visitor to the restaurant, he led me through the menu and introduced me to such off-the-menu delights as fried eggplant lightly dusted with confectioners' sugar. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I've returned to Galatoire's many times since. Now when I arrive at the restaurant, I feel like a regular when my waiter, Imre, remembers me after any length of absence and brings the eggplant to the table unasked. The combination of eggplant and sugar sounds strange, but the dish is delicious, a perfect beginning to a Creole feast and a subtle reminder of the African traditions of New Orleans cooking. The eggplant on which the dish is based may have originated in Africa, and the frying in deep oil is one of the major African culinary methods brought to this country by slave cooks.

I hated this salad when I was growing up: It was pink, had too many ingredients in it, and my very Southern family loved it — three good reasons to abstain. During Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays, my mother would always go back for seconds, chiming, "You don't know what you're missing." But I knew, all right — an unappealing mishmash of canned fruit and mayonnaise. No thanks. However, as I've grown older my family's "Southern classics" don't embarrass me as much. I've actually eaten this salad many times as an adult, and though I'm not saying it's my favorite, sometimes I need seconds to be sure.

Paired with homemade salsa, these old-fashioned fried green tomatoes get a nineties update.

Redeye gravy is traditionally made from ham drippings, water, and coffee, the last being an optional ingredient. Here we've enriched the savory braising liquid from lamb shanks with bacon (instead of ham drippings) for a new twist on an old favorite.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Unlike sauces from Texas and Kansas City, this sauce from South Carolina's Piedmont area is thin and vinegary. Note that it is not cooked. To tone down the tartness, add more ketchup and brown sugar to taste.

"On a recent visit to Charleston, South Carolina, I was greatly taken with the grits served at the restaurant Slightly North of Broad, on East Bay Street," says Charles C. Gordon of Ontario, Canada. "Is it possible to get the recipe?"